Domaine Amaury Beaufort Les Jardins de la Porte de Troyes Coteaux Champenois Jardinot 2021
Tasted blind, this wine had a Chenin Blanc-like nose and enormous acidity.
Producer
Amaury Beaufort comes from the Champagne André Beaufort family of Ambonnay. He finished his studies in vine growing in Beaune in 2005 and then worked for several years at the family domaine, Champagne André Beaufort. The first vintage under his own name, Domaine Amaury Beaufort, was 2018, and his first Champagne under his own name came out at the end of 2021.
Site
That first Champagne came from Le Jardinot, a vineyard in Polisy. This wine is a Coteaux Champenois, a still white wine from Champagne made from Chardonnay.
Vinification
Across the domaine, fermentation begins in 15-hectolitre oval oak casks. The casks are lightly steamed to take away some of the oak flavour, and the wine is made without sulfur.
In the glass
The first impression was compared to putting a lemon segment in the mouth, a taste that vanishes quickly. It was thought it might be an Au Bon Climat Chardonnay. It was also guessed to be a South African Chenin Blanc, and then, because of a bubblegum note, it was guessed to be a Loire Sauvignon Blanc, though the doubt kept returning over whether acidity could come out this high there. Hunter Valley Sémillon was suggested as well, since early picking there can give high acidity, and it was wondered whether the wine came from there. It was in fact a still white wine from Champagne. The acidity is very high and distinctive. There is an underripe taste, as if the grapes were picked early. I had thought it was not Chardonnay. Stone fruit was also noted.